Five days ago, on June 7, 2015, Turkey had a parliamentary election whose results were called “a big surprise”, “a triumph of Turkish democracy”, and “a blow” to the Turkish president. Pretty dramatic stuff. In a nutshell, the president, who was trying to strengthen his constitutional powers, was taken down a big peg by the voters who took away his party’s parliamentary majority for the first time in fifteen years.
To understand why this is hugely important in 21st Century global politics, you have to return to the roots of Turkish democracy at the end of World War I, as the once mighty Ottoman Empire disintegrated. A great place to start is with the extremely readable Midnight at the Pera Palace: The Birth of Modern Istanbul
, by Charles King.
The Pera Palace was a luxury hotel built in Istanbul in 1892 as the terminus of the famous Orient Express rail company. Its fortunes waxed and waned with the many changes that affected Istanbul through the transitions brought on by two world wars and the quest for modernity.
The story of Istanbul and the rise of the Turkish Republic is a fascinating tale. This intersection of Europe and Asia has always reflected a trade and cultural crossroads of explosive complexity. Enormous themes of human discord have played out here: Islam vs Christianity vs Judaism; religious vs secular; Axis vs Allies; royalty vs republic; spy vs spy; holocaust and genocide; slavery and discrimination.
The over-ripe Empire gives way to the over-reaching Occupation, which, in turn, is out maneuvered by the underdog nationalists. There are heroes, heroines, bad guys, and buffoons. Proud Muslims build an imperfect nation that seems always hesitantly poised on the brink of greatness. Dogged Jews battle bureaucracy to snatch lives from certain death. A Roman Catholic priest breaks enough rules to steel his own humanity, ultimately inspiring his brethren to make him one of history’s most famous popes.
Historically, culturally, and politically, Istanbul is one of the planet’s premier cities. Under the cloak of 465 years of Ottoman rule, it has never really been given its due in western classrooms. Our current-day headlines reflect its complicated past. Midnight at the Pera Palace: The Birth of Modern Istanbul pulls all these themes together to help us understand the unique circumstances that gave birth to the Republic of Turkey.
Cruising into the Istanbul harbor on a sunny morning is one of the grandest experiences of travel. If you get the chance, you will always remember it. Any cruise itinerary with Istanbul will offer up centuries of art, history, religion, politics, and economics. Check out the Cruisereader.com articles on the Eastern Mediterranean ocean cruises and the Rhine/Danube river cruises for related reading.
Bon Voyage!
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