This is a very relaxing cruise through an area you could drive in a few hours. There’s a lot going on, though the pace is slow and easy. As with European river cruises across the continent, some detours may be necessary due to high or low water. Several river cruise companies operate here. The itineraries are very similar because, ultimately, there are no other places to go.
The Uniworld cruise we took is very representative of the cruise itinerary and program for the other week-long Bordeaux river cruises. The order of ports may differ somewhat as the river ships all jockey for dock space. The bottom line is that the ports are so close together, you can do them in almost any order.
After boarding and spending the night quayside in Bordeaux, (Day 1), we headed south on the Garonne River to Sauternes, (Day 2). As it turned out, the river was high and the Bordeaux bridges were low, so we took a bus. Once you get away from the Bordeaux city environs, the countryside exudes its medieval charm with church steeples, tiny villages, stone architecture, and lots of vineyards.
We selected the Sauternes tasting tour. This was hosted in the Chateau Royal de Cazeneuve. “Royal” because it was owned by King Henri IV, and whose descendants still own it. Henri married the beautiful and popular Marguerite of Valois, “Queen Margot” to her adoring subjects, in 1572. Unfortunately, Margot produced no heirs. So, Henri exiled Margot to Cazeneuve where she spent 18 years trysting with lovers.
Apparently, when Henri scolded Margot about her behavior, she replied: “Is it a crime to be fond of love? Is it right to punish me? There are no ugly loves, nor beautiful prisons.” The French phrase, “Point ne sont de laides amours, ni de belles prisons” is inscribed over the fireplace in her drawing room, right under her portrait. Quite the modern lady and a favorite of the French populace, here is her story, Queen Margot: Wife of Henry of Navarre
. The racier “novel” version, by Alexandre Dumas, La Reine Margot (Oxford World’s Classics)
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We had a wonderful lunch at Cazeneuve where a different Sauternes was served for each course. The wine merchant sponsors were evidently making the point that good Sauternes wine can be served at any course, not just dessert. We also visited Chateau de Myrat in Barsac, one of the original Grand Cru Classes vineyards. The tour always ends in the tasting room.
After breakfast on Day 3, the ship cruised north from Bordeaux to the Haut Medoc area. We got off at an isolated pier in Pauillac, hopped on the bus and drove past several beautiful chateaux, including the famous Chateau Latour. The day’s tasting took place at the Haut-Medoc Grand Cru Classes vineyard, Chateau La Tour Carnet, complete with medieval lineage, a moat, and black swans.
As we drove through the manicured countryside, we passed more Grand Cru Classes vineyards, including Pichon Longueville, (Pauillac), Cos d’Estournel, (Saint-Estephe), and the renown Chateau Lafite Rothschild, (Pauillac). An inspiring day!
After drifting across the estuary, we woke up on Day 4 in Blaye. No one crows too much about the wine here. The main attraction, which makes for a very nice walk on a pretty Aquitaine morning, is the fortress high on a strategic bluff over the river. One of a dozen UNESCO World Heritage Sites dedicated to the fortresses of Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban, the military architect for Louis XIV. Marshal Vauban and the Defence of Louis XIVs France
That afternoon your river cruiser moves from the Estuary to the Dordogne River, pulling into Bourg. This is a sleepy little stop with some nice viewpoints overlooking the river valley.
Day 5 is a big deal and one of the highlights of the trip. The ship heads a little further upstream and pulls over at Libourne. This is your jumping off point for St. Emilion. The medieval center of St. Emilion is just about as cute, French, and libacious as you would hope it would be. Any tour you take will include a cave tour and some wine tasting.
Religious history buffs will be momentarily distracted by the church protecting the hermetic grotto of St. Emilion. After leading an exemplary ascetic life, our monk passed away in his cave in 767 AD. The resulting church has some very interesting ornamentation. Emilion himself was probably a wine drinker, as the crossroads village has been known for its vintages since the 2ndCentury. I expect, however, that he would be aghast to know how many wine stores there are in this tiny town of less than 2,000 souls.
I had the pleasant opportunity, early in life, to live in Paris for a couple years. During this time, I acquired an appreciation for Michelin stars and the venues that sport them. On our Bordeaux trip, an excursion offered in St. Emilion was lunch at the Hostellerie de Plaisance, a two-star Inn situated in the upper town. St. Emilion is perched on a pretty steep slope. So, the view from the formal patio and garden is very nice.
There are 29 three-star restaurants in France and 86 two-star restaurants. Eating in any of them will be a memorable experience. The MICHELIN Guide France 2020: Hotels & Restaurants (Michelin Red Guide) (French Edition)
claims a three-star restaurant is “worth the trip”, while a two-star restaurant is “worth the detour”. As one of the top 115 restaurants in the country that invented the word “gastronomique”, Hostellerie de Plaisance lived up to the billing.
You are promised three paired courses, though, with the amuse bouche, the palette cleansing intermezzo, and the post-dessert truffles, it felt like six. I would never have chosen to eat the dishes they served, and yet, they were all fascinating taste sensations. We thought we would get red wine. We got white, and it was wonderful. The service was personable and razor sharp. Absolutely worth the detour!
We spent Day 6 puttering around Libourne, with its modest art museum and extensive marketplace. In late afternoon, we pushed off for Bordeaux, arriving the morning of Day 7. The day in Bordeaux is included in the cruise, so use it to see the sites. If you can spend a couple more days, so much the better.
And don’t forget to stop and smell the bouquets. Of course, we mean wine bouquets, because some of the best in the world are right here in Bordeaux. Salut!
